Thrift, popularly called bend-down-select, is a thriving clothing business in Nigeria. Many describe it as used clothes from foreign countries, while others call it second-hand wear, but its common name is bend-down-select, which later evolved into being called thrift. In Yorubaland, it is known as okrika, while in Benin it is known as aloko. Thrift has become a nationwide practice due to the fact that it is not limited to a particular city or state in Nigeria, but is found everywhere in the country because of the benefits it gives to individuals.
The rate at which people prefer thrift clothing to normal fashion brands in Nigeria is very high. Many individuals no longer spend money on high-quality wear because of thrift fashion. In the past, it was known as clothing for the poor, but now both the rich and poor wear it, and no one can differentiate them at a glance. Due to the high rate of inflation, everyday wear from fashion brands has become so expensive that many people now depend on thrift. When someone hears thrift, what comes to mind is clothes only, but thrift is not limited to clothes alone; it also includes shoes, caps, and many other body wears.
The word thrift means saving money and spending wisely, so when people say thrift fashion, they mean buying fairly used or second-hand clothes at a cheaper price instead of buying expensive brand-new clothes. That is why thrift fashion is often connected to affordability, budgeting, smart spending, and sustainability. In essence, it means being economical and resourceful.
The process by which thrift enters the country and is sold to individuals is in four stages, which include: Collection of used clothes abroad: In countries like the United States and the United Kingdom, people donate unwanted clothes to charities, recycling centers, thrift stores, and collection bins. In these countries, clothes no longer worn by individuals are often given out due to changes in fashion trends, body size, or personal preference. These clothes are usually dropped at church donation centers, nonprofit organizations, recycling programs, etc. Organizations such as Goodwill Industries and the Salvation Army are widely known for collecting donated clothing. These clothes are then sold locally in second-hand stores, while large quantities are kept for export to developing countries.
Sorting and baling: After collecting these clothes, workers inspect and separate them based on quality, fabric type, gender, age category, and fashion value. The clothes are then compressed into large bundles known as bales. Importers in African countries often purchase these bales through international second-hand clothing suppliers. Clothes discarded in Western countries often find a second life in African markets.
Distribution to major markets: After arriving in Nigeria, wholesalers sell the bales to retailers in major thrift markets such as Katangua Market, Yaba Market, Aswani Market, and many more. Retailers then open the bales, wash or style the clothes, and resell them individually.
Online resale and social media: Due to the rise of social media, many thrift sellers no longer depend only on physical markets. They now sell through social platforms like Instagram, TikTok, and online thrift stores. Some even rebrand, model, or customize thrift pieces before reselling them. This is one reason why thrift fashion has become trendy among Nigerian youths.
The growth of thrift fashion in Nigeria is backed by various factors, several of which include:
Economic hardships and rising prices: This has become a major factor in the increase of thrift fashion sales in Nigerian markets. Many Nigerians cannot easily afford expensive boutique clothes anymore due to inflation and the high cost of living. Thrift gives people a cheaper alternative while still allowing them to dress well. For example, a pair of jeans that may cost ₦40,000 in a boutique can sometimes be bought for ₦5,000 or less in thrift markets. The large price difference makes thrift fashion attractive to people trying to maintain a good appearance. Many families now focus more on survival and careful spending. Fashion lovers, students, workers, and even middle-class Nigerians have turned to thrift clothing as a more affordable choice.
Social media influence: Platforms like Instagram, TikTok, and many others have made thrift fashion more popular. Content creators now post upgraded ways in which thrift can be used and worn, such as thrift hauls, “drip on a budget” content, and before-and-after styling videos, which have helped remove the old stigma around okrika.
It was not formerly called thrift, but due to the rise of a new generation, it is now termed thrift fashion. Social media has transformed thrift from being socially condemned into something socially accepted. Social media has also increased the visibility of online thrift businesses. Many thrift sellers now model thrift clothes online and deliver them directly to customers. Social media has also promoted the idea that fashion is not about expensive brands, but about creativity.
Thrift fashion business: Many young Nigerians, including university students, have found thrift fashion to be a source of income. It has become a booming business. Some buy clothes in bulk from markets and resell them online through Instagram or WhatsApp Business, while others run small thrift pages targeted at students and young professionals. This shows that thrift is not just a style but also an economic opportunity.
Unique fashion: Many youths prefer thrift fashion because it helps them stand out. Unlike mass-produced clothing, thrift items often include vintage wear, rare designs, foreign brands, and unique streetwear styles, which help people create personal fashion identities. An example is alte fashion.
Sustainability and environmental awareness: Some people now support thrift fashion because it reduces waste. Instead of throwing clothes away, garments are reused and restyled. This supports sustainable fashion and reduces environmental pollution.
Many people may not realize that in this business there are different grades in the arrangement and sale of thrift clothing. There is first grade, which is high quality and more expensive; second grade, which is more common and cheaper; and lastly clearance grade, which is of lower quality and the cheapest.
Despite the benefits thrift brings to individuals, it also has many disadvantages, which include:
Effect on the local textile industry: Many Nigerians prefer cheaper imported thrift clothes instead of locally made garments because they are more affordable. This indirectly reduces the demand for Nigerian-made clothing and tailoring businesses, resulting in the shutdown of textile companies over the years.
Loss of jobs: When locally made clothes are not patronized, it affects factory workers, tailors, fashion designers, and textile producers, thereby weakening the growth of Nigeria’s fashion manufacturing sector.
Dependence on foreign goods: Due to heavy reliance on thrift clothing, dependence on foreign goods increases, thereby discouraging local production.
Health and hygiene concerns: Some thrift clothes may carry bacteria, fungi, skin infections, or unpleasant odors if they are not properly washed or disinfected before use.
Smuggling and illegal importation: Although restrictions exist on second-hand goods, many products still enter Nigeria through smuggling routes and informal trade channels. This can lead to corruption at borders, difficulty regulating the market, and loss of government revenue.
Although thrift fashion has become a major part of Nigeria’s fashion culture due to its affordability, creativity, and business opportunities, concerns still remain about its effect on local textile industries and national development. As more Nigerians continue to embrace thrift fashion because of economic hardship and rising prices, one important question remains: should affordability be prioritized over the growth and sustainability of locally made products in Nigeria?
