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Friday, December 5, 2025

The numbers don’t lie: eyebrow restoration is one of the fastest-growing aesthetic procedures

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Somewhere between 2010’s razor-thin arches and TikTok’s messy “boy brow”, we started believing our eyebrows were personality traits.

One wrong tweeze, a little too much microblading, a poorly planned lamination, suddenly, the things meant to frame our faces started dictating our confidence.

And now? The pendulum has swung to restoration culture, a movement where we fix what beauty trends once convinced us to destroy.

Think of it as beauty’s apology tour: quiet, medical and deeply personal.

According to the International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery (ISHRS), eyebrow transplants are one of the fastest-growing aesthetic procedures globally.

To put this into perspective, the growth rate is reminiscent of the surge in popularity of injectable fillers over the past decade, highlighting its rapid rise and increasing demand.

In 2024, 12% of women seeking non-scalp hair restoration chose eyebrow transplants, up from 9% in 2022. Surgeons are also seeing more men walk in to reclaim fuller brows, not for drama, but for balance. 

For many people, brows are no longer about following trends. They’re about restoring something they didn’t realise they’d lose forever.

A prime example of this is the beautiful, mesmerising American actress Meagan Good, the epitome of thin, plucked brows, who has admitted to having brow restoration surgery because her hair follicles were damaged from the 2000s’ thin, plucked brows.

Somewhere between the razor-thin arches of the 2010s and TikTok’s messy “boy brow”, societal standards surrounding eyebrows morphed into a reflection of personal identity.

From microblading mishaps to medical solutions

Eyebrow transplants sound like something influencers whisper about, but they’re surprisingly grounded.

Hair follicles are borrowed from a donor site, usually the nape or sides of the scalp, and carefully implanted into the brow.

But this isn’t copy-paste surgery. An eyebrow isn’t just hair. It’s a direction, a shape and a story told in tiny angles. 

“We use the finest grafts and place each follicle at exactly the right angle, so that the eyebrow looks natural, never transplanted,” said Dr Kashmal Kalan, medical director at Alvi Armani South Africa.

Technique matters. Design matters. The face leaves no room for shortcuts.

The biggest culprits sending people to hair restoration clinics?

  • Chronic over-plucking (hello, early 2000s).
  • Heavy microblading that scarred follicles.
  • Burns or injuries.
  • Autoimmune conditions.
  • Scarring alopecia. 

Once hair follicles are permanently damaged – a condition practitioners call “follicular dropout” – growth serums or cosmetic tricks can only do so much.

For some, surgery becomes the only real solution. We like to pretend beauty is lighthearted, whimsical and reversible. But anyone who has spent years filling gaps with brow pencil or skipping pool days for fear their tint will fade knows that beauty can become surprisingly stressful.

Eyebrow restoration isn’t always vanity. Sometimes it’s relief.

More than a quick transformation, a new brow marks a steady journey of gradual healing.

“We’ve seen patients who avoided mirrors or social interactions for years rediscover themselves through restored brows,” said Dr Kalan.

“For those with scars or burns, the transformation is as emotional as it is physical.”

We chase trends for fun. We seek restoration to feel like ourselves again.

Eyebrow transplants aren’t a fast fix. They’re a medical procedure that requires:

  • Good donor hair.
  • Realistic expectations.
  • Stable health and healthy healing.
  • No active inflammatory or autoimmune flare-ups.

Doctors screen carefully. Not everyone should or needs to have a transplant. Mindful beauty is finally embracing knowing when restraint is the real treatment.

What actually happens during a brow restoration surgery?

  • Each brow needs 250 – 500 microscopically prepared hairs.
  • You’re awake with local anaesthetic, sometimes light sedation.
  • Swelling and tiny scabs last a few days.
  • The transplanted hairs shed within a month (yes, on purpose).
  • Growth starts around month three.
  • Brows fill out by eight to nine months.
  • Because they come from the scalp, you’ll need to trim them, especially early on.

A new brow is less “instant transformation”, more “gradual healing”. Think slow beauty. Almost poetic.

Restoration culture tells us something simple: confidence doesn’t always come from changing who we are. Sometimes it comes from undoing what hurt us along the way.

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