The Canary Island that feels frozen in time and still surprises – and why one man who planned to stay a few months ended up living there for 19 years

DAILYMAIL.COM • 1h ago

By ALESIA FIDDLER – TRAVEL REPORTER 15:01 14 Oct 2026, updated 15:11 14 Oct 2026

When Jay Burke first visited La Palma 19 years ago, he had only intended to stay on the Canary Island for a few months. Little did he know, he would end up making it his home.

The Irishman had just been made redundant from his IT job and planned to use the break to relax and escape the pressures of everyday life. Instead, he fell in love with the lesser-known island, and this December marks 19 years since he first arrived.

Mr Burke has since spent 16 years working on La Palma as a TUI holiday rep, giving him a unique insight into what makes the island so special – and why visitors looking for something different from the usual Canary Islands holiday should consider it.

‘People sometimes arrive thinking La Palma will be another version of Tenerife or Gran Canaria, but it isn’t geared up for tourism in the same way,’ he says.

‘For the vast majority, that ends up being the whole appeal.’

The relaxed pace in La Palma makes it a great shoulder-season destination, and visitors will find warm temperatures of around 22C (72F) even in November.

‘They come expecting one thing and end up completely switching off. It’s almost enforced relaxation,’ Mr Burke explains.

‘No big nightlife strips, no rows of bars, just amazing scenery, local life and a really authentic Canarian feel.’

It is possible to visit on a budget too, as many of the best experiences on the island are completely free, according to Mr Burke.

Visitors can enjoy an expansive hiking network and natural swimming pools, as well as Los Tilos rainforest and waterfall, and parts of the national park.

Mr Burke recommends heading to the San Antonio volcano visitor centre, where entry is €8 (£6.70) for adults and €6 (£5) for children.

‘People are often surprised when I tell them places like the rainforest, the waterfall, the national park and the natural swimming pools are free,’ he adds.

‘San Antonio is chargeable, but it’s hugely impressive because you can walk around the rim of the volcano.’

The island is home to something quite unique too – what locals call the ‘Tunnel of Surprises’.

It is a road tunnel through La Palma’s volcanic spine where the weather can change within minutes.

‘You can go into the tunnel in glorious sunshine and come out the other side feeling like you’ve arrived in a Scottish winter,’ Mr Burke says.

‘You turn a corner and suddenly you’re in a completely different landscape.’

Other impressive sights to see include Caldera de Taburiente National Park, Roque de los Muchachos, the volcanic landscapes left by the 2021 eruption, the north-eastern rainforest and natural swimming pools, and the traditional capital of Santa Cruz de la Palma.

‘The views from Roque de los Muchachos are simply jaw-dropping,’ Mr Burke shares.

‘You’ve got the national park, the observatories and then completely different landscapes again when you head towards the rainforest or the volcanic areas.’

As for trying out the local cuisine, the holiday rep recommends going to La Placeta in Santa Cruz, a courtyard restaurant where three pedestrianised streets meet.

‘La Placeta is a lovely spot because you can sit in the courtyard, watch the world go by and the food is excellent,’ he says.

‘For sunset, I’d head to Tazacorte – the seafront restaurants there are spectacular.’

But Mr Burke does have one tip for first-time visitors – he says to avoid planning drives by distance alone.

‘Distance means nothing here, it’s the time you need to think about. The roads are good, but they climb and twist, so you can’t judge a drive by looking at the kilometres on a map,’ he explains.

He also says visitors should not miss La Palma after dark, thanks to its famous night skies.

‘The stargazing here is incredible,’ he adds. ‘It’s considered one of the best places in the world for it, and the clarity of the night sky is something people should make time for.’

For holidaymakers planning their next trip abroad, Mr Burke urges them to consider La Palma for ‘a traditional, real Canarian experience’.

He says: ‘It’s clean, safe, stunningly beautiful and there’s a throwback-to-the-past feel about it. You just have to go with the flow.’

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