The best looks from fashion month, judged by menswear nerds

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Something unique and probably bad happens to a menswear nerd’s brain during fashion month. Between New York, London, Milan and Paris, we’re being force-fed hundreds of runway looks, A Clockwork Orange–style, our eyes propped open. Sure, this means we’re tired and overwhelmed and should be wearing those “GIVE ME SPACE” vests they put on nervous dogs. But on the other hand, we’ve analysed enough suits, separates and collections that we’ve temporarily ascended to a higher plane.

And because knowledge shared is knowledge gained or whatever, I think we should document our findings. So, I texted all my menswear friends to find out what their number one look of the season was, and why.

Murray Clark, Head of editorial content, British GQGucci, Look 1 (top left)"I expect popped collars at Ralph Lauren. I’ve grown accustomed to them at Michael Rider’s Celine, too. But in Demna’s latest Gucci collection – an absolute clinic in worldbuilding as a cast of characters preened through a mock-up store – the popped collar was less soft jock, more Milanese credit-card-juggling heir with a very active Raya account. It’s easy, and sexy, and confident, and just the right amount of silly."

“This look actually really stood out at Valentino. It’s such a delicate touch for them, but I thought it was beautiful, and the pop of lime with an accessory is genius. It’s also a loose bib, so it has movement. It was just very subtle. Elegance and ease is always my most-loved combination.”

“At Jil Sander, Simone Bellotti is trying to redefine the concept of minimalism in the digital age, an era of live-streamed fashion shows, where images become available just a handful of minutes after the show ends. This look is a perfect example of this, from the way the coat moves, almost like a living organism of its own, to how the pale pink creates an almost shocking effect against the rest of the colour palette. If we were to take away that outerwear, it would simply be a beautiful look; adding it makes it one of my favourites of this season.”

“I loved the colour combination of purple and red, with a white shoe. And obviously the cummerbund!”

Mahalia Chang, senior style editor, British GQConner Ives, Look 24 (top left)“If I could disappear into any fashion universe, it might be Conner Ives’. Inside his slinky NYC club, it’s all about maximalism and flamboyance, in the laziest, coolest way. I was so into this undone gentleman with his cummerbund over his boxers and his crisp shirt sleeves rolled up.”

“I love what Maximilian Davis is doing at Ferragamo, and this season’s fisherman’s vests may be a favourite. I love how he has mixed something casual and almost sporty and paired it with tailoring. A couple of seasons ago, Prada put an oversized fisherman’s vest above a blazer, but what Davis has done here, I think is cooler. With the remake of American Psycho on the horizon, I can imagine an updated Patrick Bateman wearing this exact thing.”

“I love the Miu Miu menswear looks. Obviously, it’s not often that we get to see menswear looks from Miu Miu – RIP menswear line, circa 2007! Anyway, I particularly like these two because they are both short kings. It's hard for me to find things that fit me and that are the right length. So this gives me hope. As someone who wants so badly to be a Miu Miu girl but often it’s just a bit too feminine for me to actually pull off, it’s really nice to see the language of the brand translated into a menswear look. Still able to have the multi-layering, the cute little tie things, the boxers and everything. I just love that. Also, I’m a big bicep fan! So I like the tight little fitted tees that they do. I would wear this every single day.”

“Tom Ford and Haider Ackermann are a match made in heaven and he keeps proving it season after season. It’s sexy and provocative, yet without ever being vulgar or feeling dated. It’s what every guy nowadays secretly wishes to be or should aspire to be.”