This African National Park Sees Fewer Than 3,000 Visitors a Year—and Is Home to Thousands of Gorillas

0African elephants in the Lekoli River in The Republic of Congo.Credit: Roger de la Harpe/Getty ImagesOdzala-Kokoua National Park in the Republic of the Congo offers something rare: a sense of genuine remoteness. More than twice the size of Florida’s Everglades National Park, it covers 5,230 square miles and was designated in 1935, making it one of Africa’s oldest national parks. It’s home to more than 4,400 plant species and more than 100 mammal species, including forest elephants, bongos, and critically endangered western lowland gorillas. Yet a journey here can feel remarkably intimate.

You can drift down the Lekoli River, watching for birds in the forest canopy, or wade along elephant trails leading from the nutrient-rich Lango Baï. Later, you can wash off the mud with a swim in the Lékéni River, one of many waterways threading through the forest and savannas. Gorilla trekking may bring you to this remote corner of Central Africa, but the hours spent on its rivers and forest trails give the journey its lasting hold. Here’s my insider’s guide to thee region.

Planning a trip to Odzala-Kokoua is easier than its remote location might suggest. Choose one of Kamba African Rainforest Experiences’ seven-, 10-, or 11-night itineraries, and the company arranges your flights from Brazzaville, lodge transfers, and guided activities.

From Brazzaville, Kamba flies to the park twice a week. The flight takes about two hours aboard a 12-seat L-410 aircraft, though timing depends on the weather.

The Republic of the Congo is often confused with its much larger neighbor, the Democratic Republic of the Congo. They are separate countries with different geography, political circumstances, and security considerations.

The Republic of the Congo’s capital is Brazzaville; Odzala-Kokoua National Park lies in the country’s northwest, within the Congo Basin rainforest. Before departure, consult the current travel advisory for the Republic of the Congo and prepare for the limited access to emergency services that comes with travel beyond Brazzaville.

Dian Fossey made mountain gorillas famous, but at Ngaga Lodge, just outside Odzala-Kokoua National Park, you’ll track their western lowland cousins. Mountain gorillas live in the high-elevation forests of Uganda, Rwanda, and the Democratic Republic of the Congo; just over 1,000 remain in the wild. Kamba

Western lowland gorillas are the most numerous of the four gorilla subspecies, though they remain critically endangered. Kamba estimates that more than 600 live in the Ndzéhi concession around Ngaga Lodge. During your stay, you can track one of three families accustomed to the presence of researchers and visitors. African Parks

Slightly smaller than mountain gorillas, western lowland gorillas also spend more time in trees. Look up: your first sighting may be a gorilla feeding in the canopy.

Rain is part of a trip to the equatorial Congo Basin, whatever month you choose. Temperatures stay fairly consistent year-round, generally between 77°F and 82°F (25°C and 28°C), but the amount of rain—and the experience it brings—changes with the seasons.

Late April to mid-June and mid-September to November: These wetter periods bring frequent, often brief downpours. Rain generally intensifies in October before easing toward December. Photographers may welcome the stormy skies; higher water levels can also open up longer boat excursions.

December to March, and mid-June to early September: Rain is less frequent, though showers remain possible. July is typically among the coolest and driest months. As water levels fall, some boat routes may become harder to navigate, while gorillas may be easier to spot feeding in the trees and other wildlife may gather in forest clearings, or baïs. ,

Odzala-Kokoua is a year-round destination. Choose the wetter months for lush conditions and more time on the water, or the drier periods for less rain and potentially easier wildlife viewing.

Odzala-Kokoua is a place to see wildlife and to support its protection. Park and conservation fees are included in Kamba’s journeys, while tourism revenue has helped fund local projects to improve access to water and education. The forests around Ngaga Lodge are also home to a long-running gorilla research program. kambaafrica.com

That work becomes tangible on a gorilla trek, where no more than four guests accompany a guide and tracker into the forest. The small group gives you room to slow down, watch, and listen.

Jonty Medcalf is a member of Travel + Leisure’s A-List and specializes in trips to the Republic of the Congo and Madagascar. You can create a tailor-made itinerary with Medcalf by contacting jonty.medcalf@timbuktutravel.com.

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