Gen Z is making Indian textiles cool again: 5 heritage weaves that are having a fashion comeback

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For a long time, Indian handlooms were caught in an unfortunate fashion stereotype: beautiful, intricately crafted and undeniably timeless, but somehow reserved for weddings, festivities or the wardrobes of mothers and grandmothers. Generation Z seems to have other ideas. From styling Jamdani sarees with sneakers and pairing Ajrakh stoles with simple tops to wearing Chanderi with modern separates and turning traditional fabrics into oversized jackets, young Indian shoppers are giving handlooms a fresh, contemporary spin.

If there is one type of fabric that proves that delicacy can be fashionable, it is Jamdani. This textile is originally from West Bengal and is known for its very fine, airy fabric, which gives it elaborate patterns that seem to float on the surface. Its intricate weave also means that the process is labour-intensive, giving the fabric an artisanal quality. In the past, Jamdani has been associated with royalty and luxury, but it is slowly creeping into the wardrobes of the common people in the form of sarees, dupattas, and kurtas. But Gen Z is not exactly wearing it in the traditional style. They are opting for elaborate blouses, big silver jewellery, and sneakers or simply matching a Jamdani dupatta with a monochrome outfit.

Dark blue, reddish brown, reddish black, and geometric shapes ready to repeat. Ajrakh has all the features that modern trends love. It is a textile and block printing from Kutch and Sindh, and it reflects a unique pattern lost in its complex printing and dyeing process. Thanks to its particular combination and complexity with traditional substances, Ajrakh maintains a basic simplicity in terms of visual expression. Luckily, it is easy to work with Ajrakh patterns. New generations might prefer to wear Ajrakh forms more casually, for instance, as an accessory, a shirt, or a jacket.

Chanderi is probably the simplest fabric to visualise in a Gen Z wardrobe. It is a light and airy fabric. While this fabric was once used mainly for sarees and dupattas, there is a competition to use it in new ways without losing respect for tradition. The fabric’s best feature is its versatility. Chanderi creates a conventional look in a saree but can easily be transformed into a kurta, jacket, kaftan, oversized shirt, or a trendy dress. This textile remains popular in the current trend towards minimalism. The soft texture of the fabric means it can look luxe without the support of embellishments.

While Chanderi may embody simplicity, Ikat takes it to the dramatic level. Featuring unique designs made using the process of resist-dyeing, Ikat has a strikingly graphic style. While its fuzzy edges and geometric designs make it seem modern, the making of ikat has a long-standing tradition. Ikat is now present in several creations like jackets, shirts, dresses, skirts, and others, and Gen Z’s love of bold designs explains the widespread use of Ikat.

Kota Doria is a fabric that is perfectly suited for contemporary Indian fashion. Traditionally made in Kota, Rajasthan, Kota Doria is a breezy textile that is known for its lightweight and airy design as well as its trademark square checks called khat. The special blend of silk and cotton makes the fabric even more lightweight and appealing.