‘A proud loaf with a deep, caramel crust’: the best (and worst) supermarket sliced wholemeal bread, tasted and rated
All rise … Photograph: Robert Billington/The Guardian. Food styling: Robert Billington.View image in fullscreenAll rise … Photograph: Robert Billington/The Guardian. Food styling: Robert Billington.Review‘A proud loaf with a deep, caramel crust’: the best (and worst) supermarket sliced wholemeal bread, tasted and ratedOur wholegrain hero sorts the wheat from the chaff in the search for a simple pleasure: a satisfying sandwich loaf
I’ve broken my strict, like-for-like approach this week in the interests of just finding a really good sliced wholemeal sandwich loaf. Alas, most of these are made to the standard Chorleywood process, with each one a cardboard replica of the other and with only nuanced differences. However, I did find two with exceptional flavour and one with a notably good, firm texture that’s ideal for spreading stuff on; to my surprise, several have an impressive lack of additives, too, and they all score well on value.
The Chorleywood process is an industrial method for making bread in just three and a half hours using high-speed mechanical processes and chemical additives. It was developed in the 1960s, and now accounts for about 80% of the bread made in the UK. If you’re looking for palm oil-free loaves with zero additives, emulsifiers or preservatives, sandwich loaves are hard to navigate, but there are some that fit the bill – just check the label.
View image in fullscreen£2.20 for 580g at Morrisons (38p/100g)£2.35 for 580g at Waitrose (41p/100g)★★★★☆
A small, round-topped tin loaf with a closed crumb, a dense texture (perfect for spreading) and an evenly glazed crust. A sweet, wheatgrass aroma, medium-firm bite and simple flavour profile. A sweet, nutty taste without any bitterness. A simple ingredients list (wholemeal wheat flour, water, wheat gluten, fermented wheat flour, salt), zero additives and palm oil-free.
View image in fullscreen99p for 800g at Aldi (13p/100g), in store only★★★☆☆
A soft loaf speckled with millet, sunflower and other seeds and with a fresh and wholesome malty aroma. Yielding to the bite, with good texture from the seeds and the chewy crust. Three additives (two emulsifiers, one preservative), but palm oil-free.
View image in fullscreen£2.25 for 550g at Ocado (41p/100g)£2.25 for 550g at Tesco (41p/100g)★★★★☆
A soft and seedy loaf (loads of millet, sunflower seeds, linseeds and others) with a roasted barley and fermented yeast aroma. A sweet flavour with a complex nuttiness and toasted bran finish, and extra texture from the sheer quantity of seeds. Made with flour from cereals grown by Wildfarmed’s regenerative farming project. B Corp-certified, zero additives, and palm oil-free.
View image in fullscreen£1.60 for 800g at Asda (20p/100g)★★★☆☆
A thick slice with a medium closed crumb and an appetising, sweet, nutty aroma. A bit gummy, but with substance and a good and textural bite from all the seeds (sunflower, pumpkin, linseed). A well-balanced flavour profile, too, with zero additives. Contains palm oil and palm fat, though.
View image in fullscreen£1.60 for 800g at Sainsbury’s (20p/100g)★★★☆☆
A proud loaf with a deep, caramel-glazed crust. A sweet, malty but sour aroma, and a dense, firm crumb with mixed seeds throughout (mainly millet and sunflower). Firm and crunchy with a sweet, nutty flavour and no bitterness. Zero additives, but contains palm oil.
View image in fullscreen£1.75 for 800g at Tesco (22p/100g)★★★☆☆
A soft, seedy loaf topped with wheat flakes. A rich, bran-forward aroma, and a simple flavour, with a savoury, nutty finish and a decent bite. Zero additives, and palm oil-free.
View image in fullscreen75p for 800g at Ocado (10p/100g)★★☆☆☆
A soft loaf with a closed crumb and gummy texture. A sweet, nutty aroma with a bitter, burnt finish. Sweet at first, with a nice, nutty middle. A good everyday loaf with zero additives, but does contain palm oil. Exceptional value, too.
View image in fullscreen£1.50 for 650g at Asda (24p/100g)£1.80 for 650g at Ocado (28p/100g)★★☆☆☆
A dark, round-topped sandwich loaf with a closed crumb and soft, gluey texture. An acrid, over-toasted bran aroma and distinctive malty but bitter bran flavour. Zero additives or labelled artificial preservatives, and emulsifier-free. Contains certified “sustainable” palm oil.
View image in fullscreen£1.95 for 800g at Tesco (25p/100g)£2 for 800g at Waitrose (25p/100g)★★☆☆☆
A rich, tanned loaf topped with wheat flakes. A sweet, nutty aroma and a soft texture. Simple, bran-forward flavour with a bitter aftertaste. Three additives (one preservative, two emulsifiers), but palm oil-free.
View image in fullscreen£1.30 for 800g at Co-op (17p/100g)★☆☆☆☆
A standard soft wholemeal loaf with a closed crumb, a sweet but mildly synthetic aroma and a gummy texture. A sweet-forward flavour with subtle, nutty notes and a pleasant aftertaste. Three additives (two emulsifiers, one preservative), plus palm oil and palm fat.
For more, read our roundup of the best sourdough and the best brioche buns
Reported by theguardian.com.
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