What Should You Do About Your First Gray Hairs?
Save this storySave StorySave this storyA startling situation was brought to my attention at the hairdressers a couple of weeks ago. I was getting my hair cut, scrolling on my phone and minding my own business (natch), when the stylist pointed out that I had a gray hair. I almost dropped my phone. I knew, of course, that it was going to happen; I just didn’t want it to happen so soon. My first gray hair. What do I do? As someone with dark brown hair who has never dyed it, I was out of my depth. The gray was very obvious against the rest of my hair, and yet the myth of pulling it out for five more to come was at the forefront of my mind (it is not factually accurate but just in case!). It was not just the color either, but the texture–wiry and coarse.
I wanted to get to the bottom of why this occurs. What causes gray hair, and why does it feel like a different texture? “Hair goes gray when your follicles, tiny pigment factories, start shutting down,” explains colorist Hannah Gayle, who is based out of Hershesons Belgravia. “When there is less melanin and less color, eventually, silver/white hairs appear; basically, your hair is saying, ‘I’m retiring from the dye department.’ Your DNA decides when your hair’s little pigment factories start clocking out, and when pigment production slows down, the follicle can change too. So gray hairs often grow coarser, drier, wirier and a little more unruly.”
Hair colorist Josh Wood adds that while the biggest factor is genetics, “There can also be other influences, including stress and overall health.” He adds that while some people “are lucky enough to develop beautifully soft, silky gray hair,” for others, “it can feel thicker, coarser, and a little more unruly.”
In my case, and most commonly, gray hair appears at the temples and hairline. Wood confirms this as the norm: “Generally, the pattern tends to start at the front and gradually work its way towards the back of the head.”
So it became my mission to find a solution to these first gray hairs. It seemed to me I had three choices with just the sporadic grays that had materialized so far: embrace them, blend, or cover. Dyeing my whole head of hair seemed far too dramatic and costly. With that in mind, below are the tried-and-tested ways to shield or celebrate your grays.
BlendingCoveringEmbracingMeet the ExpertsBlending“There are so many temporary solutions now for blending those first signs of gray without committing to permanent color,” Wood tells me. “I like to think of it as having a whole wardrobe of wash-out solutions–from the Blending Brush to Root Smudge–which can be used to disguise and soften the appearance of those first few grays.”
The key, says Gayle, is “not battling the grays.” She advises to “work with them, not against them. gray hair can be seriously beautiful, and those silver strands can actually add softness and dimension. Going straight into full coverage can box you in later, so I’d keep it seamless, subtle and low maintenance. Let the grays be part of the look, not something we have to hide.”
She shares a top industry trick for when you need a quick-fix solution: “Try a little eyeshadow on the grays. It gives the softest, most natural-looking coverage without harsh products transferring all over your clothes. Just shade up from your natural hair color. Then leave your hair undone.”
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There are permanent and semi-permanent options should you wish to cover your first gray hairs. Glaze’s Supergloss is my favorite, where I opted for Sleek Espresso that is a great match to my hair and easily disguises the grays while remaining low commitment. It applies like a gloss after shampooing; you leave it on for 10 minutes and then rinse out. Depending on how deep you want the color, you can repeat this at your next hair wash day, or the color will last 10 washes.
Gayle is a fan of the Shades EQ gloss, which she says “adds gorgeous, sheer tones without the heaviness of permanent color.” She adds, “It brings back beautiful depth, enhances your natural dimension and makes those grays come alive in the most effortless way.”
The benefit of these options is the wash-out nature that gives you control. Wood says you can “build up the desired density of coverage and you can really customize the result depending on how much gray you want to disguise–there’s no reason you should have to see a gray hair if you don’t want to.”
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While my initial reaction was one of shock, gray hairs are a natural part of aging. If it’s the texture rather than the shade that is more of a concern, arm your bathroom cabinet with nourishing formulas that will support hydration and leave your locks silky smooth. “Making gray hair look bright and, perhaps more importantly, smooth is a great way to embrace it,” Wood concurs, recommending hair gloss treatments and deeply hydrating masks to bring sparkle, vibrancy, and smoothness “so it looks glossy, healthy, and in optimum condition.” He advises to “use a hair mask once a week–it’s a really simple way to nurture the hair, boost shine, and create a smoother, more polished finish.”
There are also styling tips and tricks. Gayle shares: “Leave it undone,” before adding, “Think tousled texture, beachy bends, and cool-girl movement. Don’t over-style it. Let the silver peek through. The messier the finish, the more effortless and sexy the grays feel.” Consider a permanent blow-dry, which she believes will “soften that harsh, coarse texture gray hair can sometimes bring. It adds silk, shine, and smoothness, while taming frizz and unruly strands, without stripping away the body and volume we love. Essentially, sleeker, softer, shinier hair with all the movement still intact.”
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When we test and review a product, we take a holistic approach to deliver well-rounded product recommendations. First, we lean on Vogue's vast network of experts—from board-certified dermatologists to celebrity estheticians—to gain professional acumen on the industry's standout products, ones these specialists would actually use on their clients. We pair their expertise with our editorial best practices to curate the thoughtful edits you read on our site.
As it relates to products for gray hair, we selected the best based on the following characteristics: product type, ingredients, texture, ease of application, longevity, finish, and the hair-care concerns they address. To do this, we paired our own personal tests of each formula with expert guidance and reviewer insights to determine which we would recommend to you. Read more about our testing methodology here.
Hannah Gayle is a hair colorist based out of Hershesons BelgraviaJosh Wood is a hair colorist with salons in Holland Park and Claridge’sDiscover More Beauty Recommendations From Vogue ShoppingThe Best Eyebrow Pencils for Older Women Create Natural-Looking Volume and Fullness
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