Cold comforts: the most satisfying autumn whites

Want ripeness, body and freshness? Then you can’t go far wrong with the Atlantic-influenced wines of Galicia. Photograph: graficart.net/AlamyView image in fullscreenWant ripeness, body and freshness? Then you can’t go far wrong with the Atlantic-influenced wines of Galicia. Photograph: graficart.net/AlamyCold comforts: the most satisfying autumn whitesAs summer fades and our social and dining habits adapt to the cooling weather, so, too, should the white wine we drink. Here are some options best-suited to the season

The wine world is full of clubs, and I’m a member of the Just-Drink-What-You-Bloody-Like club, which makes even the thought of white wines for autumn and winter feel uncomfortably prescriptive. But, for me, as the nights draw in, there’s less standing, more sitting; less chugging, more swirling; fewer sprightly aperitifs, more wine with seasonal food that demands a little more body and complexity. After months of saying yes to rosé, I’m choosing wine with more intention – it’s time to hunker down.

I’m looking for whites that are like a good cardigan, at once coddling and breathable. I want ripeness, body and freshness, and the Atlantic-influenced wines of Galicia in northern Spain – a place that’s no stranger to wind and rain – deliver. Expressive, with a saline edge, albariño from the Rías Baixas appellation has become ubiquitous in supermarkets and rarely disappoints (try Aldi’s Specially Selected one at £8.99), neither does the fuller-bodied godello from nearby Valdeorras (the Wine Society’s Exhibition range offers a good one for £14.95), while the blend of both those grapes and other local varieties from Galicia’s Ribeiro DO in today’s pick is a cool-climate humdinger for the colder months.

In October, soft greens and nightshades are out, roots and brassicas are in, and barbecues have given way to roasts; the season’s food slows us down. At my house, spiced stews and curries are increasingly on the menu, which invite aromatic central European wines such as a zippy, limey Mosel riesling. But these heartier meals also welcome something waxier, richer, warmer, such as the South African chenin blanc in my pick. Skin-contact whites, too, hold their own with these more robust flavours. Look out for wines made with Georgian grapes rkatsiteli or kisi, or those from Italy’s Friuli region. These are not budget wines, but if I drink less in the cooler months (which I do, with the obvious exception of December), that seems a good reason to spend a bit more per bottle.

There is also a small but dependable family of wines that doesn’t care about the season, and which I’ll happily drink year-round, no matter the food or mood. Gavi is often considered a summery Italian white, but the Le Marne in today’s pick is aged on the lees (the dead yeast cells left over after fermentation) for three to four months, resulting in a rounded, biscuity wine I will never tire of. But, as I said, it’s personal; if none of these appeal, just drink what you bloody like.

Tesco Finest Steep Slopes Mosel Riesling £8, 11%. Hits the spot when paired with a spicy takeaway and, at this price, makes for a budget-friendly Friday night in.

Pazo do Mar Blanco Ribeiro 2025 £9.95 The Wine Society, 13%. Five native grapes work in harmony to make this food-friendly wine that sings of cool-climate Galicia.

Gavi Marne Bianco Le Marne di Carraro Federica 2023 £19 Sip Wines, 13.5%. I had this at my November wedding nine years ago, and love it more now than ever. Golden, savoury and complex.

David & Nadia Chenin Blanc Swartland 2024 £29.58 Justerini & Brooks, 12.5%. Eight vineyards, mixed soils, old oak barrels and concrete vats produce this precise, generous Swartland chenin; find me sipping it fireside.

Pheasant’s Tears Rkatsiteli Bakurtsikhe 2024 £21 Vinum, 13%. A light amber beauty that brings apricotty, honeyed sunshine to the dimmest of autumn evenings.