Makeup Artists Share Tips on How to Wear Lip Liner for Women Over 50
The truth is, lips undergo their own aging process, impacting the shape, definition and texture, making it difficult to know which products to purchase and how to wear them. Do you dare to overdraw? Or is it better to color inside the lines?
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According to beauty founder and makeup tool innovator Jenny Patinkin, there are certain trends women over 50 should shy away from, one being the cool contour technique.
"I know the trend is to wear a cool-toned brown lip liner to overline and contour, but the lack of color and blue undertones can make aging lips look corpse-like and skin look pallid," she told WWD. "I tend to prefer a neutral pink-toned liner that is a shade or so deeper than your natural lip color, so it looks fresh and natural no matter what product you're pairing it with." The Makeup by Mario Ultra Suede Sculpting Lip Pencil in Hugh holds the number slot in her kit.
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When it comes to the "blurred lip" trend, a look that's meant to move and melt, Patinkin said the only way to pull this off is to pick the perfect liner shade. "We lose definition at the edges of our lips over time anyway, and I, for one, certainly do not want to accentuate it by blurring any further. A good trick here is to choose a liner that exactly matches your lips, apply it as you usually would, and then buff the edges ever so slightly with your pinky. This takes the edge off without erasing the definition and looks natural with every color," she continued.
"If you want the lips to appear fuller, slightly overline the cupid's bow and the center of the bottom lip, then gradually come back to your natural lip line toward the corners. This creates fullness while still looking believable," added celebrity makeup artist Karoline Karakeosian, whose A-list client roster includes Kerry Washington.
The biggest issue with liner on mature lips is when it feathers into vertical lines, Patinkin pointed out. Patinkin and Karakeosian agreed the best formula to fight this for those in the 50-plus cohort is a creamy one (think almost waxy). These liners help limit the appearance of dryness, creases or cracks, not to mention they can help prolong the wear time. Patinkin called out POV Beauty's Contour It collection, specifically, noting how these formulas are designed with film formers to fix the product in place.
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"If you are committed to your liner but hate how it feathers, stay away from slippery thin lipsticks, glosses, balms and oils that migrate as you talk (or breathe or exist). Instead, opt for a thicker, stickier gloss that will stay where you put it," Patinkin added. The filler product should be spread through the center of the lips, Karakeosian added.
Another tip to fight the feathering is to prep the surface before applying liner. Artist Denise Del Russo suggested starting with an exfoliant. "Exfoliate lips with a gentle sugar scrub or even just damp cloth to gently remove any dry skin. Second, apply a nourishing balm to moisturize and third, blot lips with a tissue to remove any excess oils," she said.
Bottom line, the purpose of wearing lip liner for women over 50 should be to "enhance, not overpower," Karakeosian said. "Used correctly, it can restore definition, help prevent feathering and subtly create the appearance of fuller, more balanced lips."
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