\n
ACCRA, Ghana (AP) \u2014 In a sprawling secondhand clothing market in Ghana\u2019s capital, early morning shoppers jostle as they search through piles of garments, eager to pluck a bargain or a designer find from the stalls selling used and low-quality apparel imported from the West. <\/p>\n
At the other end of the street, an upcycled fashion and thrifting festival unfolds with glamour and glitz. Models parade along a makeshift runway in outfits that designers created out of discarded materials from the Kantamanto market, ranging from floral blouses and denim jeans to leather bags, caps and socks.<\/p>\n
The festival is called Obroni Wawu October, using a phrase that in the local Akan language means \u201cdead white man\u2019s clothes.\u201d Organizers see the event as a small way to disrupt a destructive cycle that has made Western overconsumption into an environmental problem in Africa, where some of the worn-out clothes end up in waterways and garbage dumps. <\/p>\n
\u201cInstead of allowing (textile waste) to choke our gutters or beaches or landfills, I decided to use it to create something \u2026 for us to use again,\u201d said Richard Asante Palmer, one of the designers at the annual festival organized by the Or Foundation, a nonprofit that works at the intersection of environmental justice and fashion development.<\/p>\n
Ghana is one of Africa\u2019s leading importers of used clothing. It also ships some of what it gets from the United Kingdom, Canada, China and elsewhere to other West African nations, the United States and the U.K., according to the Ghana Used Clothing Dealers Association. <\/p>\n
Some of the imported clothes arrive in such poor shape, however, that vendors dispose of them to make room for the next shipments. On average, 40% of the millions of garments exported weekly to Ghana end up as waste, according to Neesha-Ann Longdon, the business manager for the Or Foundation\u2019s executive director. <\/p>\n
The clothing dealers association, in a report published earlier this year on the socioeconomic and environmental impact of the nation\u2019s secondhand clothing trade, cited a much lower estimate, saying only 5% of the items that reach Ghana in bulk are thrown out because they cannot be sold or reused. <\/p>\n
In many African countries, citizens typically buy preowned clothes \u2014 as well as used cars, phones and other necessities \u2014 because they cost less than new ones. Secondhand shopping also gives them a chance to score designer goods that most people in the region can only dream of.<\/p>\n
But neither Ghana\u2019s fast-growing population of 34 million people nor its overtaxed infrastructure is equipped to absorb the amount of cast-off attire entering the country. Mounds of textile waste litter beaches across the capital, Accra, and the lagoon which serves as the main outlet through which the city\u2019s major drainage channels empty into the Gulf of Guinea.<\/p>\n
\u201cFast fashion has taken over as the dominant mode of production, which is characterized here as higher volumes of lower-quality goods,\u201d Longdon said.<\/p>\n
Jonathan Abbey, a fisherman in the area, said his nets often capture textile waste from the sea. Unsold used clothes \u201caren\u2019t even burned but are thrown into the Korle Lagoon, which then goes into the sea,\u201d Abbey said.<\/p>\n
The ease of online shopping has sped up this waste cycle, according to Andrew Brooks, a King\u2019s College London researcher and the author of \u201cClothing Poverty: The Hidden World of Fast Fashion and Second-hand Clothes.\u201d <\/p>\n
In countries like the U.K., unwanted purchases often end up as charity donations, but clothes are sometimes stolen from street donation bins and exported to places where the consumer demand is perceived to be higher, Brooks said. Authorities rarely investigate such theft because the clothes are \u201cseen as low-value items,\u201d he said.<\/p>\n
Donors, meanwhile, think their castoffs are \u201cgoing to be recycled rather than reused, or given away rather than sold, or sold in the U.K. rather than exported overseas,\u201d Brooks said.<\/p>\n
The volume of secondhand clothing sent to Africa has led to complaints of the continent being used as a dumping ground. In 2018, Rwanda raised tariffs on such imports in defiance of U.S. pressure, citing concerns the West\u2019s refuse undermined efforts to strengthen the domestic textile industry. Last year, Ugandan President Yoweri Museveni said he would ban imports of clothing \u201cfrom dead people.\u201d<\/p>\n
Trade restrictions might not go far in either reducing textile pollution or encouraging clothing production in Africa, where profits are low and incentives for designers are few, experts say.<\/p>\n
In the absence of adequate measures to stop the pollution, organizations like the Or Foundation are trying to make a difference by rallying young people and fashion creators to find a good use for scrapped materials.<\/p>\n
Ghana\u2019s beaches had hardly any discarded clothes on them before the country\u2019s waste management problems worsened in recent years, foundation co-founder Allison Bartella said. <\/p>\n
\u201cFast forward to today, 2024, there are mountains of textile waste on the beaches,\u201d she said.<\/p>\n
Francis Kokutse, The Associated Press<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
ACCRA, Ghana (AP) \u2014 In a sprawling secondhand clothing market in Ghana\u2019s capital, early morning shoppers jostle as they search through piles of garments, eager to pluck a bargain or a designer find from the stalls selling used and low-quality apparel imported from the West. At the other end of the street, an upcycled fashion […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":255099,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-255097","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-business"],"yoast_head":"\n
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