After years of controlling the creative vision of two enormous luxury houses — Yves Saint Laurent and Ermenegildo Zegna — Italian designer Stefano Pilati is back with Random Identities, his own label of ready-to-wear. The result is a unisex collection of utilitarian garments that have been “primed for the digital era”.
Premiered via live-streaming earlier this month in Montreal, Canada, at the headquarters of e-commerce giant SSENSE, the collection is many things operating in harmony. At the heart of it is a kind of love letter to the designer’s adopted home of Berlin, Germany, where he has resided since his departure from Zegna in 2016. With Pilati stating one of his key sources of inspiration was the style of his friends, the references to the city’s famous love affair with the night have been realised unapologetically.
While ready for a rave many, if not all, of the pieces have an effortless wearability, thanks to the designer’s expert eye for tailoring, and one could imagine many of the garments (particularly the covetable outerwear) becoming staples appropriate even in daylight. The collection straddles many worlds. That of day and that of night. The confines of gender roles and a new, more fluid, approach. It is romantic but still realistic – and it seems Pilati is too.
WATCH | The premiere of Random Identities at SSENSE HQ